Improvement in patterns for cutting the uppers of shoes



v3.-L'l-:lmaeTH- Patterns feruttng the Uppers of Shoes.

N0. 144,341. Patented Nov.4,\873.A

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)UNITED VScrnrns 'ATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE L EINROTH, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

IMPROVEMENT IN PATTERNS FOR CUTTING THE UPPERS OF SHOES.

Speci'icationformng part of Letters Patent No. 144,341, dated November 4, 1873; application filed y Juiy 7, 1873.

To alt whom it may concer-n:

Beit known that I, GEORGE LErNRoTr, of the city and county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improved Pattern for Cutting Uppers of Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a clear and exact description of the nature thereof, sufficient to enable others skilled in the art to which my invention appertains to fully understand, make, and use the same, refrence being had to the accompanying drawings rmaking part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 represents the pattern embodying my linvention. Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate the mode of using the pattern.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

It is well known that great difficulty is experienced by shoemakers in properly measuring the patterns of heels of shoes, especially of ladies gaiters, the same becoming too large or small in proportion to the instep, thus occasioning serious inconvenience to the wearer.

My invention consists in a pattern for laying and cutting out the uppers, whereby the aforementioned defects will be remedied, and it will not be necessary to add anything to or cut od' anything from theupp ers at the instep and heel portions.

Referring to the drawings, A represents the pattern employed by me, the same being somewhat of the form of side view of an upper of `a gaiter, the outlines being shown at a b c d.

A series of graduations, B, are marked on the pattern A near the toe portion, and extend from the edge a toward the edge b. These graduations correspond to the size or number of the shoe, as, for instance, ones, threes, Ste., and the numbers increase toward the edge d. A series of graduations, C, are marked on the pattern at the point corresponding to the instep, and said graduations extend in lines parallel to the graduations B. These graduations (l operate in relation to the graduations B, as will be hereinafter stated. A series of graduations, D, are marked on the pattern on the side corresponding to the edge c, and extend laterally therefrom. These graduations indicate tli e exact measurement of the foot at the highest part of the instep, as illustrated in the line .r x, Figs. 2, 3. E represents a diagram or auxiliary pattern, which is to be marked out on paper or otherwise, and represents the proper outlines of the upper or form which the upper should assume to correspondA to the shape of the feet generally. In the pattern E a` point for the heel is marked at e, and for the toe a point, f, the object of which will be specified.

The operation is asfollows: The foot having been duly measured, the heel-measure will be observed as usually, and the pattern is prepared according to the diagram E-that is, the diagraln is employed as a starting-point, and its outlines are marked on paper. Suppose the size or number of the foot to be fours,77 then the pattern A is laid on the marked-oit diagram with the outerend, of line 4 of graduations B i at the point f of the diagram E. Then the pattern will be moved on the said outer end of line 4 as an axis imtil the outer end of line 4 of the graduations C coincides with the upperedge of the diagram at the instep portion. Suppose the dimensions w, indicating the highest part of the instep, be nine and a half, then the pat tern A is to be moved on the outer end of line 4 of the graduations C as an axis until' the line 9% of the graduations D coincide with the lower edge of the diagram. Now refer to Fig. 2, and it will be seen thata space, g g, is left between the upper ed ge of the diagram and the upper edge of the patternA. This space is noticed or marked, and the pattern A then laid on the diagram soL that the upper edge of the .pattern A may be marked on the diagram inside of the space g, so as to preserve the shape of the shoe. The diagram is now marked along the upper edge of the pattern A, and thus the upper line of the gaiter portion is established without changing the dimensions of the line a w. The dimensions of the space g g which was marked off above must be allowed for below, as at y y. Now, the pattern thus marked would cause the shoe to be inconvenient at the ankle, in that said portion would be thrown back. To remedy this the diagram E is placed on the markedout diagram, so that the heel-point e and toepoint f of the Vdiagram register with the heelpoint c and newly-established toe-point f of the marked-out diagram. The ankle portion will now show its thrown-back shape, and must be brought forward. To accomplish this I cut oft' a piece, e, from the rear and add a piece,

z", to the front.

(See Fig. 2.) rlhis 11e-establishes the proper shape of the marked-off diagram. Again, suppose the size or number to be four and the dimensions in line m .r be eight and a half; then, referring to Fig. 3, I proceed as in the first case. On turning the pattern A on the outer edge of line 4 of the graduations C until the line 8% of graduations D coincides with the lower line of the marked-oft' diagram, a space indicated by lines 7c 7o is left between the top lines of the diagram and pattern. NOW, placing the toe-point of the patterns A at the toe-point of the diagram, and the upper edge ot' the pattern at the outer end of line 4L of the graduations C at the marked-oit space indicated by lines 7c k, I mark ofi' on the diagram the line of the upper' edge of the pattern A to the line 4L of graduations C and mark out a line, as at m, to rejoin the line above the instep. The amount marked off above, as indicated by the lines 7c 7c, must be added below. In either case the line a: m has been preserved,

so that, when the diagram, as-marked out-the shape of the foot at other points hayjing been likewise marked on the diagram or preservedl according to the original pattern-is tranferred to the leather, the upper of the gaiter can be truthilly cut out, and corresponds with the l Witnesses:

JOHN A, WIEDERsHEIM, MILLARD F. WAL'roN. 

